Japan doesn’t want for food, drink, and entertainment options—just ask the thousands of Condé Nast Traveler readers who recognized Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto as the three best big cities in the world in the recently announced Readers' Choice Awards. The longest-running and most prestigious recognition of excellence in the travel industry, the Readers’ Choice Awards poll more than 800,000 transatlantic readers on their global travel experiences. Last year, Japan stole the show.
There’s no doubt that Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto’s foods, activities, and cultural traditions are beloved. But beyond these three cities, there’s another wealth of kindred experiences that await in Japan’s otherworldly region northeast of mainland Japan, Tohoku. Tohoku is made up of 6 prefectures – Aomori, Akita, Iwate, Fukushima, Miyagi, and Yamagata.
Consider Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto an entry point into what can be found in lesser-known (though no less accessible) corners of the country. Tohoku is easy to get to from Japan’s major airport hubs, such as Tokyo and Osaka, and is an easy Shinkansen bullet train ride from Tokyo Station via “Tohoku Shinkansen” and “Akita Shinkansen.”
If you like Tokyo’s epicurean culture, try Tohoku’s prestigious dishes and drinks
Tokyo was voted the number-one big city in the world according to the Readers’ Choice Awards in part because of its absolute abundance of award-winning, star-collecting restaurants. Tokyo is a destination for the passionate and the food-obsessed in search of rare flavors and profound experiences in equal measure. But outside of the dazzling capital city, in Tohoku you’ll find more subtle edible luxuries that showcase the stories, customs, and ethos of the people behind Japan’s drinking and dining traditions.
The free-flowing Tsugaru Channel connects the currents of the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Japan, providing its native Oma tuna population with plenty of squid and Pacific saury snacks. Here, in the blue waters off the coast of Aomori (Tohoku’s northernmost prefecture), fisherman reel in this special, “black diamond” bluefin tuna with a traditional pole and line, causing minimal damage to the fish and thus preserving its unparalleled quality. If you were inclined to try this luscious, melt-in-your-mouth fish, you could probably taste it in Tokyo. But you could also go straight to the wellspring.
A taste of Tohoku’s scallops are also worthy of a trip to the source. There are roughly 300 types of scallops in the world, and some of the best can be found in the northern waters around the Aomori, Iwate, and Miyagi prefectures.
Sake is produced throughout Tohoku; the land is perfect for high-quality rice production, which translates to excellent rice wine. Each region is known for specific flavor profiles, which tend to pair particularly well with local specialty foods. Eighth-generation Hachinohe Shuzo in Aomori, for example, sells the well-balanced Mutsu Hassen, a sake with a fruity aroma that pairs well with pickled vegetables and broiled mackerel. And at Nanbu Bijin in Iwate, you’ll find the world’s first vegan-certified sake, as well as the brewery’s plum liqueur (umeshu) and lemony yuzu-infused brews. Toko Brewery in Yamagata was originally created for the local samurai lord. Now in its 24th generation, it has grown into one of Japan’s most successful and renowned sake brands.
Not to be outdone, Akita Prefecture tempts gourmands with Kiritanpo-nabe, hot pot made with vegetables and long rice dumplings. What’s in your bowl isn’t all that matters. Enjoying this local delicacy in person, over an open hearth among the people who preserved these tastes and textures for centuries, is unlike anything you can experience anywhere else—even in Tokyo.
If you like Osaka’s lively nightlife scene, try Tohoku’s vibrant festivals and events
Japan’s second-largest city locked in the number-two spot on the Condé Nast Travelers roundup of the Best Big Cities in the World in part because of its totally unexpected baseball culture—just one aspect of Osaka’s playful personality. Exciting nightlife, delicious street food, and straight-talking, friendly locals all contribute to a city atmosphere unlike anywhere else in Japan. Tohoku, however, with its colorful festivals and events, can easily give Osaka a run for its money.
Japan’s north is home to three of the nation’s most colorful summer celebrations. In Aomori, the Nebuta Festival, held between August 2 to 7, consists of a daily parade of dancers, taiko drummers, and giant, colorful paper-lantern floats, almost too beautiful and fantastical to believe they were crafted by mere teams of humans. The best part? Anyone with the proper costume (which you can purchase in many places, even in the grocery store) can participate in any of the processions. Head southwest to the long-standing (think 17th century) Akita Kanto Festival, where candlelit paper lanterns are hoisted up on heavy poles in hopes of a good harvest of the five grains: wheat, rice, beans, foxtail millet, and Chinese millet. And the Sendai Tanabata Festival celebrates an ancient legend of star-crossed lovers with massive streamers, stunning decorations, and fireworks. All three can be experienced on one trip.
Akita also hosts Oga no Namahage, a spectacular event and registered UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage that takes place on December 31. Men wearing demon costumes walk from home to home, bringing gifts and shouting words of warning—sounds scary, but the namahage are actually benevolent spirits who bring good luck.
Iwate Prefecture is the origin of one of the most playful, fun, and wacky experiences in Japan. Case in point: wanko soba, a tradition of serving a small amount of buckwheat noodles (soba) in an endless flood of small bowls to symbolize the generous nature of the locals. Your server will encourage you to eat more with chants of “Hai jan jan, hai don don.” Clear your schedule and come hungry—respect is only earned if you eat at least 100 bowls.
If you like Kyoto’s well-preserved historical authenticity, try Tohoku’s storied, specialty crafts
The former capital city of Japan is world-famous for its refined traditional Japanese culture, spanning dining, temples and shrines,maiko and geisha, ateliers of traditional crafts like Nishijin textiles, and chic concept stores. Kyoto practically pulses with artistic energy, which is why Condé Nast readers like you love it so much—and why you’ll also adore Tohoku.
Handcrafted Nanbu Tekki cast ironware’s roots can be traced back to the unassuming cities of Morioka and Mizusawa in Iwate Prefecture. Today, there are three factories in the region that specialize in the labor-intensive process that ensures incredible heat retention and durability for each teapot, pot, and pan. Nanbu Tekki is officially certified as a Traditional Craftwork of Japan; the artistry involved in creating this cherished metalwork remains much the same as when it was first crafted in the 17th century.
Traditional Iwayado tansu chests, tea cabinets, bookshelves, tables, and the like are also made in Iwate, in the cities of Oshu and Morioka, specifically. This elaborate woodwork is said to have been developed in the latter half of the 18th century—a relatively recent craft by Japan’s standards—as an attempt to diversify an economy dominated by rice. Identify Iwayado tansu (tansu translates to “chest of drawers”) by its elaborate, embossed designs, metal ornamentation (sometimes of Nanbu Tekki cast ironware), and deep, richly colored lacquered finish.
Aizu lacquerware refers to objects covered in decorative lacquer—a sap taken from the Urushi tree—produced in areas of Aizu in Fukushima Prefecture. This storied craft’s popularity was initially fueled by a feudal lord’s endorsement almost 400 years ago, in the heart and height of samurai culture. The skills involved in creating this cherished export have been passed down and refined for generations, and urushi tree plantations are preserved across the province for this special purpose.
If you travel to Japan, you’ll be tempted by tried-and-true Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto. All are fantastic (the three best big cities in the world!), but to never venture outside them would be a true injustice to the experiences that await beyond the hits. Tohoku has its own unique charm and tradition, a depth of spirit, and an edge of mystery that keeps you wanting more. Don’t miss out.
Discover Tohoku for yourself here.
